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May 13th 2009 Press Release - 30th Anniversary Announcement                                                                      -Sunday May 17th first 30 oil changes are on us!

Winter driving on roads and highays in the snowcapped mountains can be a pleasant adventure or it can be frustrating, tiring and sometimes even hazardous.   Before Heading for Snow Country:

  • Make sure your brakes, windshield wipers, defroster, heater and exhaust system are in top condition.
  • Check your antifreeze and be ready for colder temperatures. You may want to add special solvent to your windshield washer reservoir to prevent ice from forming.
  • Check your tires. Make sure they are properly inflated and the tread is in good condition.
    Always carry chains. Make sure they are the proper size for your tires and are in working order. You might want to take along a flashlight and chain repair links. Chains must be installed on the drive wheels. Make sure you know if your vehicle is front or rear wheel drive.
  • Other suggested items to carry in your car are an ice scraper or commercial de-icer, a broom for brushing snow off your car, a shovel to free you car if it is "snowed in", sand or burlap for traction if your wheels should become mired in snow and an old towel to clean your hands.
  • It is also a good idea to take along water, food, warm blankets and extra clothing. A lengthy delay will make you glad you have them.
  • Weather conditions may warrant detouring traffic from the main roadway. It is strongly suggested that drivers always keep an updated map containing the areas of travel.
  • If you have a cellular telephone, pre-load the Caltrans Highway Information Network (CHIN) phone numbers for convenient, updated road conditions.
  • Put an extra car key in you pocket. A number of motorists have locked themselves out of their cars when putting on chains and at ski areas.
Driving Tips:
  • Allow enough time. Trips to the mountains can take longer during winter that other times of the year, especially if you encounter storm conditions or icy roads. Get an early start and allow plenty of time to reach your destination.
  • Keep your gas tank full. It may be necessary to change routes or turn back during a bad storm or you may be caught in a traffic delay.
  • Keep windshield and windows clear. You may want to stop at a safe turnout to use a snow brush or scraper. Use the car defroster and a clean cloth to keep the windows free of fog.
  • Slow down. A highway speed of 65 miles per hour may be safe in dry weather, but an invitation for trouble on snow and ice. Snow and ice make stopping distances much longer, so keep your seat belt buckled and leave more distance between your vehicle and the vehicle ahead. Bridge decks and shady spots can be icy when other areas are not. Remember to avoid sudden stops and quick direction changes.
  • Be more observant. Visibility is often limited in winter by weather conditions. Slow down and watch for other vehicles that have flashing lights, visibility may be so restricted during a storm that it is difficult to see the slow moving equipment.
  • When stalled, stay with your vehicle and try to conserve fuel while maintaining warmth. Be alert to any possible exhaust or monoxide problems.
Chain Requirements:
  • R1: Chains, traction devices or snow tires are required on the drive axle of all vehicles except four wheel/ all wheel drive vehicles.
  • R2: Chains or traction devices are required on all vehicles except four wheel/ all wheel drive vehicles with snow-tread tires on all four wheels.
    (NOTE: Four wheel/all wheel drive vehicles must carry traction devices in chain control areas.)
  • R3: Chains or traction devices are required on all vehicles, no exceptions.
Chain Controls:
  • You must stop and put on chains when highway signs indicate chains are required. You can be cited by the California Highway Patrol and fined if you don't. You will usually have about a mile between "Chains Required" signs and the checkpoint to install your chains.
  • Control areas can change rapidly from place to place because of changing weather and road conditions.
  • The speed limit when chains are required is 25 or 30 miles an hour.
  • When you put on chains, wait until you can pull completely off the roadway to the right. Do not stop in a traffic lane where you will endanger yourself and block traffic.
  • Chain Installers: If you use the services of a chain installer, be sure to get a receipt and jot the installer's badge number on it. Remember, chain installers are independent business people, not Caltrans employees. Having the badge number may help with any misunderstandings later. Chain installers are NOT allowed to sell or rent chains.
  • When removing chains, drive beyond the signs reading "End of Chain Control" to a pull-off area where you can safely remove them.

Before Driving, Check with Caltrans Highway Information Network. 800-427-7623

HOW OFTEN SHOULD I CHANGE MY OIL?

Most vehicle manufacturers recommend changing the oil once a year or every 7,500 miles in passenger car and light truck gasoline engines. For diesel engines and turbocharged gasoline engines, the usual recommendation is every 3,000 miles or six months.

 

 

If you read the fine print, however, you’ll discover that the once a year, 7,500 mile oil change is for vehicles that are driven under ideal circumstances. What most of us think of as "normal" driving is actually "severe service" driving. This includes frequent short trips (less than 10 miles, especially during cold weather), stop-and-go city traffic driving, driving in dusty conditions (gravel roads, etc.), and driving at sustained highway speeds during hot weather. For this type of driving, which is actually "severe service: driving, the recommendation is to change the oil every 3,000 miles or six months.

 

 

For maximum protection, most oil companies say to change the oil every 3,000 miles or three months regardless of what type of driving you do.

 

 

A new engine with little or no wear can probably get by on 7,500 mile oil changes. But as an engine accumulates miles, blowby increases. This dumps more unburned fuel into the crankcase which dilutes the oil. This causes the oil to break down. So if the oil isn’t changed often enough, you can end up with accelerated wear and all the engine problems that come with it (loss of performance and fuel economy, and increased emissions and oil consumption).

 

 

WHAT TYPE OF OIL IS BEST FOR MY ENGINE?

The type specified by the vehicle manufacturer in your owner’s manual. For most passenger car and light truck gasoline engines today, it’s any oil that meets the American Petroleum Institutes "SH" rating.

 

 

As for the viscosity of oil to use, most new engines today require a multiviscosity 5W-30 oil for all-round driving. The lighter 5W-30 oils contain friction reducing additives that help improve fuel economy, and also allow the oil to quickly reach critical upper valvetrain components when a cold engine is first started. Most engine wear occurs immediately after a cold start, so it’s important to have oil that is thin enough to circulate easily -- especially at cold temperatures.

 

 

For older engines and ones that are driven at sustained highways speeds during hot weather, 10W-30 or 10W-40 is a good choice. Heavier multiviscosity oils such as 20W-40 are for high rpm, high-load applications primarily and are not recommended for cold weather driving.

 

 

For the ultimate in high temperature protection, durability and all-round performance, synthetic oils are the way to go. Unfortunately, most synthetic oils cost up to three times as much as ordinary petroleum-based oils. They cost more because synthetics are manmade rather than refined from petroleum. But this improves their performance in virtually every aspect:

 

 

  • Superior temperature resistance. Synthetics can safely handle higher operating temperatures without oxidizing (burning) or breaking down. The upper limit for most mineral based oils is about 250 to 300 degrees F. Synthetics can take up to 450 degrees F. or higher. This makes synthetics well-suited for turbo applications as well as high rpm and high output engine applications. 
  • Better low temperature performance. Synthetics flow freely at subzero temperatures, pouring easily at -40 or -50 degrees F. where ordinary oils turn to molasses. This makes for easier cold starts and provides faster upper valvetrain lubrication during the first critical moments when most engine wear occurs.  
  • Better engine performance. Synthetics tend to be more slippery than their petroleum-based counterparts, which improves fuel economy, cuts frictional horsepower losses and helps the engine run cooler. The difference isn’t great, but it can make a noticeable difference.  
CAUTION: For vehicles under warranty, extending the normal change interval is not recommended because failing to follow the OEM’s maintenance schedule can void your warranty.  
 
Synthetics are available in the same grades as ordinary motor oils (5W-30, 5W-20 and 10W-30) as well as "extended" grades such as 15W-50 and even 5W-50.
 
There are also lower-cost synthetic "blends" that combine synthetic and petroleum-based oils in the same container. But you can do your own blend to save money by simply substituting a quart or two of synthetic oil for conventional oil when you change oil. Synthetics are compatible with conventional motor oils.
 
Who use a synthetic oil? The premium-priced oil is best for: 
 
  • Turbocharged or supercharged engines 
  • Performance or high output engines  
  • Vehicles used for towing (especially during hot weather)
  • Vehicles that are operated in extremely cold or hot climates 
  • Anyone who wants the ultimate in lubrication and protection  

EIGHT TIPS “RAIN DOWN” ON CAREFUL DRIVERS

The return of warmer weather means rain instead of snow for most of the country, which can be heavy in some regions. The saying ‘April showers bring May flowers’ can be a subtle warning for drivers as well. Here are eight tips for getting the car ready for rain and driving under such conditions:

  1. Be prepared. You can check your wiper blades – replace them if they feel “pitted” or rough to the touch. Ice or small pebbles on the windshield may have damaged them during the winter. Jiffy Lube service centers can check tires and windshield wiper blades along with fluid levels as part of overall preventive maintenance.
  2. Flash your headlights – both low and high beams – before heading out to see if all of the bulbs are working.
  3. Slow down. Driving a little slower on wet surfaces is always a good idea.
  4. Try to maintain at least two car lengths behind the car in front of you.
  5. On major turnpikes and highways, try to use the center lane as water collects in the outer lanes.
  6. Use headlights and windshield defrosters to make sure you can see what’s ahead and behind you as clearly as possible.
  7. Check the breaks by tapping them lightly.
  8. Have the car checked after you drive in heavy rain or if the car was parked in the street during flood conditions. Water breaks down important vehicle lubrication fluids. Vehicles that have been exposed to water levels may lack lubrication protection, which could lead to breakdowns and expensive repairs. The seals that protect many vital mechanisms and electronics are not designed to withstand any more than brief exposure to water. Plus, minor damage from water may worsen if not treated and can become more expensive repairs later.

10 REASONS WHY SPRING CLEANING SHOULD INCLUDE YOUR CAR

Spring brings the need for cleaning and other improvements around the house, the yard and the wardrobe. Attention should also be devoted to your car and it should include a lot more than cleaning the exterior and interior. One needs to recognize the harsh conditions your prized vehicle went through this past winter. Here are 10 steps you can take to get it back in shape!

  1. As folks invariably take shorter errands during the winter, the engine rarely reaches its proper operating temperature. This can contribute to a drain on the battery and electrical system and reduce the longevity of spark plugs. So, check the plugs and the battery.
  2. Cold weather and short-trip driving are two criteria that constitute severe driving. Most manufacturers recommend that drivers in this category should change the oil every 3,000 miles. The winter is especially taxing on the engine. A lot of wear and tear takes place by turning the ignition on during the cold months. Gas can stick on cylinder walls, and when released upon starting, creates more than the optimum amount to its mixture with oil. Cold starts also melt the condensation that forms inside of the engine during the winter and can contaminate the oil. An oil change as part of an overall vehicle maintenance service will help put “spring” back into your prized possession. Jiffy Lube can check and change all vital fluids based on manufacturers’ recommendations.
  3. Make sure all hoses and belts are checked after the tough winter.
  4. Check the treads of tires for small stones that thawed ice may have left behind.
  5. Water will have seeped into various joints and hinges of the hood, trunk top and all doors during the winter; wipe clean and lubricate all of these points.
  6. When you give the exterior of the car a good wash, don’t forget to spray underneath. Salt and mud will have accumulated in the undercarriage of the vehicle and should be flushed away.
  7. Make sure to check that the windshield wiper blades are in good shape; you may have inadvertently damaged them while scraping away ice during the winter.
  8. If you had a roadside emergency during the winter, you may have used the flashlight, flares, extra wiper fluid or other materials. Take inventory to make sure everything is in good working order or replacements are made.
  9. Vacuuming the interior and removing trash and any unnecessary objects that accumulated over the winter not only improves the appearance but also reduces weight, which increases engine efficiency.
  10. Speaking of efficiency, following all of these tips can lead to less gas consumption, so you spend a little more on enjoying the onset of Spring!

BUCKLE UP BABY

Pregnancy and Seat Belts
During pregnancy, the position of your seat belt is more important than ever. According to the National Highway Traffic and Safety Administration (NHTSA), lap belts, as well as the lap portion of a lap-shoulder belt combination, should be placed low across the hips and over the upper thighs. They must lie snugly over the pelvis, one of the stronger bones of the body. Never place the belt over the abdomen. Adjust the shoulder belt for a snug fit. If it cuts across your neck, reposition your car seat for a better fit.

Taking these simple precautions may feel a little uncomfortable or unusual at first, but you should be able to get used to them quickly.

Child Restraint Safety
Many states have laws requiring the use of seat belts and child safety seats. Here are some statistics from NHTSA regarding the importance of using proper child restraints whenever you travel:

  • Automobile crashes are the leading cause of death for children aged four to 14.
  • Every day in 2001, six children 0-14 years old were killed and 732 more were injured in automobile crashes in the U.S.
  • Proper lap and shoulder safety belt use reduces the risk of fatal injury to front seat occupants of passenger cars (ages five years and older) by 45 percent. Fatal injury risk is reduced by 60 percent for front-seat occupants of light trucks.
  • Proper child safety seat use reduces fatality risk for infants (less than one year old) by 71 percent and toddlers (1-4 years old) by 54 percent in passenger cars. Reductions for infants and toddlers in light trucks are 58 percent and 59 percent, respectively.

More information on the proper use of child safety restraints is available at: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/people/injury/childps/.

Air Bags
NHTSA reports physicians do not recommend turning off air bags for pregnant passengers or drivers. There is only a serious risk if you are very close to the air bag cover (within 2-3 inches) when the air bag deploys.

In 1998, the Transportation Equity Act was passed to allow repair shops and dealers to install air bag "on-off" switches under special circumstances. NHTSA identified these situations as follows:

  • Drivers and passengers who have been advised by physicians that an air bag poses a special risk to them.
  • Drivers and passengers who cannot position themselves to properly operate the vehicle with the center of their breastbone at least 10 inches back from the center of the driver air bag cover. (At progressively shorter distances, the chances of being saved by an air bag decreases and the chance of being injured by it increases).
  • Those who must travel with infants or children under 12 years of age in the front seat because the vehicle has no rear seat, the rear seat is too small to accommodate a rear-facing child restraint, more children must be transported than can be accommodated by the rear seat, or because it is necessary to constantly monitor the child's medical condition.

Infants should never ride in the front seat of a vehicle with a passenger-side air bag. If children between one and 12 years old must sit in the front seat, ensure they use seat belts and/or child restraints appropriate for their size or weight. Also, move their seat as far back as possible.

Since children can put themselves in danger by leaning forward or slipping out of their shoulder belts, you may wish to get a switch to turn off the air bag. Keep in mind, dealers and repair shops cannot perform this work without written authorization from the NHTSA.

You can visit www.nhtsa.org for more information.

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